Lesley in Hong Kong

Food and Homecoming

I do feel that expatriate life has an element of sadness to it because I miss my family back in England and would like to be in that situation where I can just call round for a cup of tea.  Our visits back home have to be for weeks and our family needs to accommodate us, we can't just pop round. 

My mother used to get so excited about our visits and upon our arrival the fridge would be full to bursting with everything Iceland had to offer.  Baking would have been done and there would be pies and cakes and biscuits and crisps and sweets for the children.  At an early point in our marriage my husband let on that his favourite dessert was trifle.  My mother took this to heart and there would ALWAYS be a trifle there for him.  "Oh you eat it" she would say, "No one else likes it".  And so he was under pressure to consume the whole thing until nausea set in, feeling obliged to compliment the said trifle and feeling it was rude to turn it down when it was offered for afters EVERY time.  The other thing that would be overwhelming was being given a run down on what food was available to us as soon as we had arrived.  It was like listening to the longest list of 'specials' in a restaurant and, obviously, just having got off a long haul flight, we were unable to take in any information longer than 2 sentences.

So why is it that upon the imminent arrival of my first born back in Hong Kong yesterday, after his year at Uni in England, did I find myself in Wellcome Supermarket with a trolley full of food so heavy I could hardly push it round the shop and considered getting a second trolley? 

And why is it that he feels no remorse to say.  "No thanks Mum, I'm off to Sai Kung for Thai food"!

Obviously I have brought him up to be able to make those kind of decisions for himself and not consider the feelings of his poor old mother who was all prepared to 'feed him up'.

Why is food so important to mothers?  Why is that my new silth like self' still wants to fill the cupboards up with sweet biscuits and crisps because the son is coming home and knowing perfectly well that he won't be interested in it because he can buy really nice, cheap food on the street.  OK OK, its all my fault I know.  Mothers are always to blame. 

Food Label Law

I have signed a petition objecting to the proposed new fangled food labelling law which could actually mean many food products from the UK, US and Australia would no longer be allowed in Hong Kong. It seems ironic that Hong Kong may ban foods from entering because they have claims printed on the packaging such as 'low sodium 'high omega 3' 'no trans fats'.  Such items would not comply to the new food label rules and, therefore, not allowed through customs. 

The shelves of expat frequented supermarkets could be spartan with a black market trade in Weetabix  (no added sugar) and low calorie Weight Watchers rice pudding!  We would be forced to buy red bean dessert (high in sugar but because it doesn't say so on the label it's OK) and frozen deep fried chicken dumplings (high in cholesterol and fat but because it doesn't say so it's also OK).   I have copied the following articles from the US Consulate and the HK Government web pages to through a bit more light on the matter.

Speeches and Articles by U.S. Consul General James B. Cunningham

Nutrition Labeling Regulation Proposal Will Reduce Healthy Choices

April 15, 2008

(This article was published by South China Morning Post on April 15, 2008, and this article is not for commercial use.)

One of the Hong Kong daily papers recently ran an editorial supporting the Hong Kong government's food labeling proposal, gazetted on April 3. I was pleased to see that to illustrate the desirability of a quality labeling regime, the paper used a U.S. nutrition label. We consider the U.S. regime to be among the best and most demanding in the world, and want consumers to have good information about what they eat. The irony here, though, is that under the proposal in its current form, many American products bearing that label will be effectively excluded from the Hong Kong market.

One of the pillars of Hong Kong's status as an international city is the tremendous variety and quality of its food choices. The cosmopolitan makeup of Hong Kong's population and its pragmatic regulatory regime have given its residents access to the newest, the finest and the healthiest products the world has to offer. This appealing characteristic will change if the labeling proposal takes effect as currently written. Though well-intentioned, the proposal will significantly reduce the variety of healthier food choices for Hong Kong consumers. It will also raise prices and contribute to inflation.

The policy objectives behind the labeling amendment are laudable: to help consumers make informed food choices, to encourage manufacturers to apply sound nutrition principles, and to prevent misleading or false labels and claims. But, despite its overwhelming dependence on imported food, Hong Kong authorities have devised a labeling scheme unique in the world. Most products would have to be relabeled and many would have to undergo new nutritional analysis to comply with the government's regulation. For a market of just seven million people, these added costs will make the importation of many products unfeasible.

Hong Kong's proposal is also far more rigid than other major importers, including mainland China, Japan and Korea. Singapore -- a market that also carefully protects its consumers -- has a flexible system that accommodates the various labeling standards of its principal suppliers.

Hong Kong's inclusion of a "small volume exemption" (i.e., not requiring re-labeling for products selling fewer than 30,000 units) is important and will doubtless keep many products in the market. However, it will make it more difficult and more costly to import healthier foods. This is because the small volume exemption to Hong Kong's rigid requirements is lost if the packaging contains a nutritional claim such as "low fat," "low sodium," or "high in vitamin A".

This is not an issue of labeling versus non-labeling, or of Hong Kong's right to set its own standards. It is an issue of rigid standards that unnecessarily reduce consumer choice versus more flexible ones. Virtually every one of the tens of thousands of imported items that make a nutritional claim already provides detailed nutritional information on the package. For example, products from the U.S. are labeled according to U.S. law, which is the world's most stringent. They do not, however, comply with Hong Kong's proposal. If not relabeled precisely according to the Hong Kong standard, these products will be banned. The economic reality of today's highly efficient and innovative food processing industry is that many of these foods will disappear from the Hong Kong market.

Clearly, the growing number of Hong Kong consumers who depend on products with claims for medical reasons (such as products for diabetics labeled "sugar-free"), or simply for their general health, will be seriously affected by this legislation. Moreover, if passed in its current form, the amendment will make Hong Kong people among the last instead of the first to gain access to newer and better foods. By imposing high registration, nutritional analysis, and relabeling costs on products with claims, test marketing new foods becomes expensive and complicated.

There is a simple solution. Hong Kong should broaden the small volume exemption to include food products that make nutritional claims. This would allow today's flexible labeling standards to apply to foods until sales reach a level that economically allows them to comply with the new Hong Kong scheme. This would go a long way in preserving the wonderful diversity of food that is a unique part of the fabric of "Asia's world city." Moreover, it would do so without undermining the objectives of this important legislation.

James B. Cunningham is the US consul general in Hong Kong & Macau

Steamers, Sai Kung

I was told it was closing down but no one prepared me for the empty feeling that hit my gut.  I was bereft.  I was gutted.  I was devastated when I saw the empty shell of Steamers.  The shell is all that is left now that the beating heart of Sai Kung has been unceremoniously ripped out and cast aside as if it was only another superfluous estate agent or pet shop.

I knew it was going to happen but I was in denial.  In my heart of hearts I didn’t honestly think that one day Steamers would be gone.   That popular spot on the corner, so convenient for taxis and for spotting who was (still) in there, was the reason why so many expats migrate to Sai Kung.  That particular corner had a warm and fuzzy feeling and it wasn’t only due to the Tetleys.    It was so comforting to know that arrangements could be made and gossip caught up with.  All that was necessary was “Meet you at Steamers” and everything was just fine and dandy.

This is yet another greedy landlord story.  The landlord put the rent up and a global franchise who can afford to pay the exorbitant new rate are, reputedly, willing to cough up.   

The photo was taken this morning.  I had to choke back the tears and try my very best to keep my hand steady to get this shot.  I’ve heard that a support group for previous Steamers customers is being formed where counseling will be given by professionals who can albeit attempt to get people through this very difficult time.

DANGER – avoid the white stuff

We are all sinners – it doesn’t matter what we try to do, each day there is a new scientific breakthrough announcing something new (usually fun stuff) that is bad for us.   Sex, drugs and rock and roll are all bad for us.  Everything useful is bad.  Using the Internet can become addictive.  Making calls on our mobile phone can fry our brains.  Covering our food with cling film and then using it in the microwave can give us cancer.  Apples are now coated in so many chemicals they are dangerous.  Everything we do is bad for the environment. It’s impossible to be good.

The supermarket is a veritable minefield.  We all need to become nutrition experts to understand the real message on packaging.  Those handy and so called healthy cereal bars that have ‘low fat’ printed on the label in big letters also have ‘loads of sugar’ printed in small letters on the back which of course will turn into high fat once eaten.  Boxes of cereal with happy cartoon pictures of monkeys or tigers printed on them in order to cause arguments between mothers and children and cause embarrassment and generally high stress levels for all concerned are the most unhealthy product.  They want us to think that they are full of vitamins that will aid the growth of our offspring.  But those little balls of chocolate flavoured sugar for breakfast are most undesirable, ask any primary teacher!  Don’t be fooled.  They are full of the dreaded and nasty white stuff. Sugar.

Now I am not one to be a scare mongering alarmist, but all you sinners out there beware of the white stuff.  Ignore the advertisers ‘low fat’ labels because it’s the white stuff that should be avoided.  But be extra careful out there, the white stuff, meaning sugar is not the only dangerous substance. White flour and anything made with it is linked to late on set type 2 diabetes.  Never mind the horror of cigarettes and alcohol, be afraid of all biscuits (yes, even McVities half coated digestives – I’m sorry!), all cake, even when its your birthday, white bread and pasta are all made with white flour.

Real Facts Alert! Alloxan is the name of the substance that makes flour beautifully white.  Scientists have known that there is a link between alloxan and diabetes but it is not widely advertised by the food industry because…well they want us to keep lining their pockets with our dosh obviously.  But be wise oh gentle consumer.  Go Whole.  Do your insides a favour and convert, starting from tomorrow, to whole wheat everything.  And I don’t want to hear any of your winging about loving Mighty white or Mothers Pride. It’s not real food.  In fact all bakers in Hong Kong need a good talking to because it is near impossible to buy any whole wheat product in a local bakery.  This, I am informed, is the fault of the western influence in Asia.  As well as introducing a taste for processed white flour products we also introduced the taste for white milled or polished rice.  Up until us westerners started interfering with the diet in these parts all rice was brown. Oh no! Another sin. 

Ye Olde Tradition of Twelfth Night

I know I know… its not twelfth night that was back in the day.  Well it was 6^th January.  That is the day when Christmas is officially over.  All the decorations are taken down and packed away until next year, if you can find them again.

I usually stick to this day and by the time twelfth night comes round I am sick up to the back teeth of tinsel and fairy lights and can’t wait to get them back in their boxes so the maid can have a good clean up. 

I think I will just leave that sentence hanging so those of you who don’t live a charmed expat life can comment about what a lazy cow I am and how I don’t know I’m born.

Anyway this year 12^th night was marked by a significant event which I feel compelled to document as Richard Peters will sulk and his new moustache will droop if I delay another moment.

We received an invitation to join our friends for a 12 course meal.  Yes, 12 courses.  How generous of them I thought.  But no – there was a catch.  This whole evening was organised with the precision of a military operation and not abiding by the rules set out in the email would result in a black mark against any couple and jeopardize any future social engagements.

They very cleverly invited 11 couples.  Each couple was responsible for one course.  Upon receipt of the initial invite guests were prompted to reply stating their dish option.  At this stage I obviously ignored all instructions being the slacker that I am.  I told them I would be bringing fried tripe and 12 bottles of stout.  In retrospect this was a terrible fauxpar on my part because I was then allocated a dish to cook, enough for 24 people together with well matched ales and wine.

I received another email which I slackly skimmed to see that my name was against a mysterious salad dish called Yam Sommo with an accompanying beverage of Gewurztraminer.  Once again I ignored the email foolishly presuming this to be a fictitious dish, a joke, and cooked a leg of lamb with a delicious spicy tomato sauce.  A recipe taken from my new Christmas present Jamie Cooks, which I highly recommend.

We pitched up for an evening of gutbusting fun.  By this stage I had realized that this was going to be a serious event and timing was all.  We were first to arrive at 5.30pm and quite sensibly had not eaten anything all day. 

Their front room was transformed into a restaurant.  Folding tables and borrowed chairs set out to seat 24 all fitted with precision into their lounge. 

People arrived armed with food and wine and beer and cutlery and a plate each and a wine glass each, all conforming to the previously stated instructions for the evening.  But wouldn’t you know it; the couple who were to kick off the event were late.  Honestly!

At this point I realized that the allocated dishes made sense.  Each couple had to bring a dish starting with  crudities, canapés and cocktails, next couple fish, next couple soup, next couple salad, next and so on.  I quickly scanned the order to see that Yam Sommo was a salad!  I had brought roast lamb.  I found a pencil in their sideboard drawer, crossed out Yam and wrote lamb.  I don’t think anyone noticed!  It does rhyme with Yam afterall.

The couple with the soup were terribly late and so we moved on quickly with only a small amount of moaning and the berating they received when they did arrive was taken with good humour, very few tears were actually shed in the end.  Although the couple who brought the take-away instead of making it themselves were tutted at so much they had to leave early taking their left overs and guilt with them. 

We valiantly ploughed our way through the courses, all guests really keeping up the pace very well until around course ten.  The fondue.  This was a real sticking point.  People needed a break, they needed/wanted to stand up, loosen the top button of their trousers and lie down.  It was thought respite on the roof was called for so we all piled up the stairs to enjoy the fresh air and a look at the stars.   A few deep breaths and we were ready to tackle course 10, 11 and 12.  We soldiered on through the cheese fondue, the cake and FINALLY the meringue.

It was decadent, it was gross, it was FAB!

Same time next year then?

Below is the menu showing specified times and dishes and drinks to be served.  You see what I mean about the military precision?

Starter         6.00  Crudites and Canapes     Cocktails

Soup             6.30  Butternut Squash           Sauvignon Blanc

Fish              7.00  Salmon                           Asti Spumante

Salad            7.30  Yam Sommo                    Gewirztraminer

Eggs              8.00  Souffle                         Calafornian Pink 

Vegetarian     8.30  Paneer Makhana            Pinot Gris

Sorbet           9.00  Lemon                           Semillon

Red meat        9.30  Port Meatballs              Zinfadel

Fruit             10.00  Poached Pears              Sherry

Fondue             10.30  Cheese Fondue                      Chianti

Pudding              11.00   Cake                                     Saulternes

Ice Cream          11.30   Meringue                             Muscat 

                     

The photo shows me on the right!

Fantasy

I thought about it as I think you have too.  I think about it often, more than just once a year.  I fantasize about the result and imagine other people’s reactions.  The jealousy, the bitchiness as well as admiration and the massive boost to my self esteem. How it could improve my life, improve my health and get me a better job. I picture people throwing themselves at my feet and asking me my secret.

I mean dieting.  That is what I think about oh so often.  I am in a constant state of spiritual dieting.  By spiritual I mean that in reality I am, of course, not dieting, it only happens deep inside my brain.  I am constantly tormented by guilt at what goes in my mouth and subsequently filled with regret after enjoying something which exceeds the Weight Watcher’s points, is disapproved by Jason Vale or isn’t on the E-Diet list for Tuesdays. 

In the same way I am a spiritual runner.  In spirit I run in exactly the same way as I diet.  If I have to fill in a form which has a box for ‘Hobbies and Interests’ I have to wrestle with my conscious about whether to put running or not.  Can I really justify including running when I have not, all that recently, actually ran anywhere?  You see, I so want to call myself a runner because in spirit I am.  But I have to face facts that physically I have not actually heaved myself from the settee and ran.  How long do you have to not do something before you are struck off the list?

The guilt about food started about ten years ago when I reached my goal weight with Weight Watchers.  What a moment!  But no one told me that Weight Watchers would ruin my life.  Ever since that moment I have been tormented by food.  I am now the same weight as I was before the goal weight was achieved so the fact that I have lost weight before and even had people tell me I was too thin (a momentous day!) means that I could do it again if I really wanted to.

That is where the fantasies come in.  I dream about the day I will be too thin again.  I dream about the day when I will be a fully fledged runner again.  But where does it get me?  I lurch from one promise to the next while the torment continues.

So my new year’s resolution is not the predictable go on a diet and do more exercise one.  I think, with a big, deep breath, I will let the guilt go and just get fat.  That is goal I could achieve.  In no time at all I will be like the back end of a bus, waddling around the place feeling guilt-free because I will have fulfilled my resolution and will be happy…

What this space, its getting larger by the day.